Travel to NICE, The French Riviera: A Designer’s Guide to Stay, Savour, and Source Vintage
- Lyn Cowie
- May 29
- 5 min read
There’s something about Nice that just gets me. Maybe it’s the sun-soaked charm, the effortless elegance, or the way a morning coffee somehow tastes better when sipped in a tucked-away courtyard. Whatever it is, I fell hard for this city—and if you have an eye for design, a love of vintage, and a weakness for good food, you will too.
Stay: Hôtel du Couvent—A timeless escape
I don’t say this lightly, but Hôtel du Couvent might just be one of my favourite stays ever. That’s a bold statement, I know, but hear me out. From the moment you step through its grand entrance into the open courtyard, you feel like you’ve entered a secret corner of Nice—calm, inviting, and ever so slightly mysterious.
This 17th-century convent-turned-hotel has soul. Built in 1604 by the Order of Saint Claire, the building was constructed by the nuns themselves using locally sourced materials—lime whitewash, stone, wood from a nearby château. It was declared a historic landmark in 1989, lay dormant for years, and then underwent a decade-long restoration before reopening in 2024. And let me tell you, it was worth the wait.
After a long-haul flight, we wisely booked ourselves a treatment at their Roman Baths Spa (hot tip: do this). Descending into the basement spa feels like stepping back in time, but with all the modern comforts you’d want. Floating in the thermal pools under a circular skylight? Heaven. And if you’re feeling brave, there’s an ice-cold plunge bath—though I can’t say my heart was ready for that.
The next morning, I convinced my husband to join me for a class in their beautiful movement studio. Let’s just say we both felt that pilates session the next day.
Now, let’s talk about the rooms. We booked one of their simpler options, and honestly? The simplicity was the beauty of it. Lime-washed walls, a small circular table, a coffee machine with compostable pods, a generously sized bed, an equally generous sofa, and a perfectly appointed bathroom. Understated, elegant, and deeply relaxing.
A note on breakfast at the hotel: while the food variety is excellent, service can be - shall we say, leisurely. And if this is the case in the off-season, I can only imagine high season being more challenging. If you’re someone who wakes up ravenous, maybe have a pre-breakfast snack handy.
Will I stay here again? Without question.
Savour: Fresh juices, vegan feasts & slow mornings
Start your day in Nice with a vibrantly fresh smoothie from HOBO Juicy—the perfect fuel for a day of exploring. If you’re after something more substantial, Utopia, an all-vegan restaurant within walking distance of the hotel, is a gem. Now, I know there’s a stereotype that vegans just nibble on lettuce, but finding a truly great salad in Europe is surprisingly rare. And this one? Packed with flavour, texture, and none of that sad, limp greenery. There are plenty of heartier Italian meal options too.
Antiques: The Monday market you can’t miss
If you have even a passing interest in vintage, plan to be in Nice on a Monday. Trust me. The Cours Saleya Antique Market is an absolute treat—if, like me, you enjoy a bit of treasure hunting.
I arrived right at 8 AM, which, in hindsight, might have been a touch enthusiastic. Some stalls were still setting up, but watching vendors lay out their wares was half the fun. Now, this isn’t a bargain-basement flea market—these vendors know what they have, and they price accordingly. But they’re open to a bit of negotiation, and there’s joy in the back-and-forth.
Case in point: I found a gorgeous Art Nouveau brass ashtray, (turned catchall) and a signed mustard colour Pichon Uzès Pottery French ceramic fruit bowl - an absolute gem at €40 considering it sold on 1stDibs for $485. I also spotted a mid-century coffee set - four mugs and a pot - priced at €500, which made me reconsider my entire approach to coffee drinking.

My European vintage hunt officially began in Nice when Hôtel du Couvent served their almonds in a vintage ice-cream coupe. I had to find that same. (Spoiler alert: I did, but not in France - find it in one of the pics above)
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Art: A mini pilgrimage to Matisse & Chagall
For a dose of artistic inspiration, take the bus up to the Matisse Museum. It’s small but mighty—just the right size to soak up his genius without feeling overwhelmed. From there, it’s a short walk down to the Chagall Museum (but check the lunch closing times, unless you fancy a forced midday break). While I appreciate some of Chagall’s work, I’ve come across other pieces that resonate with me far more than what’s housed here. Still, a worthwhile stop if you’re in the neighbourhood.
Explore: Hilltop views & historic villas
Just above the hotel, take a walk up to Castle Hill and perched on the top of the hill you're find Colline du Château and breathtaking 360-degree views over Nice. It’s one of those moments where you just stand there, take it all in, and think, Yep, life’s pretty good.
If you fancy venturing further, hop on a bus (or if you’re feeling fancy, the hotel’s Mercedes E-Class) and head to Villa Kérylos in nearby Beaulieu-sur-Mer. This early 1900s Greek-style villa is something else. Owned and built by French archaeologist Théodore Reinach, designed by architect Emmanuel Pontremoli, these two produced a fascinating blend of Roman, Pompeian, and Egyptian influences—down to the intricate ironwork that had me utterly transfixed. Plug in those audio guides and get lost in the history.
From there, it’s a short walk to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat—a playground for the wealthy, past and present. If you time it right, stop for lunch at Jasmine Grill & Lounge at the Hotel Royal Riviera. The views back over Villa Kérylos and the sparkling Mediterranean are only rivalled by the food itself.
Once you’re well-fed, make your way to Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, the epitome of opulence. Béatrice de Rothschild had an impeccable eye for art, interiors, and over-the-top luxury, and her villa does not disappoint. Fun fact: she was related by marriage to Théodore Reinach, the owner of Villa Kérylos—so if you detect a family resemblance in their taste for grandeur, you’d be right.
Thoughts to take with you
Nice has this effortless way of making you feel at home while also reminding you that, yes, you’re absolutely on holiday. Between the history-steeped hotels, design-rich museums, vintage markets, and divine food, it’s a city that deserves to be savoured.
Would I return? In a heartbeat.
🎤 How about you? Let me know if The French Rivera, and Nice in particular, is on your travel radar coming up? I'd also love to hear what appeals to you most about visiting Nice.
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Nice seems very nice haha!! The vintage market feels like such a fun way to explore local treasures, especially with an aperol spritz in hand like the one from your picture!! love this.
I don’t know if at my stage of life that I’ll be doing much travelling, so it’s wonderful being able to do some armchair travel through your eyes. It brings so much beauty and optimistic enthusiasm into my day.
Packed with information, crafted to keep us reading more, and so sincere. Loved this piece, and beautifully scripted!!