Why travel to Braga, Portugal should be on every design lover’s radar

Perhaps you’ve already explored the bustling streets of Lisbon—those glorious up-and-down hills and narrow cobbled pavements—and you’re ready for something a little more genteel. May I suggest hopping on the train from Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia station for a very pleasant three-and-a-half-hour ride north to Braga?

Travel to Braga from Lisbon's Santa Apolonia train station

It’s a city that quietly steals your heart with its wide boulevards, elegant architecture, and an undeniable charm that’s lesser known than Lisbon but equally rich in story.

A surprise festival and a very happy accident

Now, we didn’t plan it this way—but arriving in Braga during the week-long São João Festivities (17–24 June) was a stroke of pure luck. The streets were alive with rhythm and colour. Drummers, folk bands, and the wonderfully odd Cabeçudos—giant papier-mâché-headed characters—paraded through the town. We tapped our toes, giggled at the antics, and felt rather pleased with ourselves for having stumbled into this merry madness.

Where we stayed

We booked into INNSiDE Braga Centro, a modern hotel with a spot-on location: mere steps from the historic centre and a stone’s throw from the Nogueira da Silva Museum (a mansion filled with ceramics and art). Regrettably, we didn’t manage to squeeze in the museum—but that just means we’ll have to return.

Climbing up, and walking down, Bom Jesus

A must-see? Bom Jesus do Monte. You can take the funicular to the top (one of the oldest in the world, no less) and enjoy the church and gardens before making your descent—if you’re game—via 577 Baroque steps. These aren’t just any stairs. They form the Stairway of the Five Senses and the Stairway of the Three Virtues, winding down in ornate, photogenic glory. If Instagram’s your jam, this is where you’ll want to flex.

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Architecture that makes you stop and stare

Braga’s architecture is a dream. It’s impossible to miss the influence of André Soares, born in Braga in 1720. Despite a relatively short life (he died at 49), his work is everywhere—from churches and palaces to civic buildings. There’s little known about his training, but plenty said about his flair for designing intricate wood carvings and exuberant Rococo architecture.

My personal favourite? The delightful Palace of Raio (Palácio do Raio)—a masterpiece of Portuguese civic Rococo architecture. Its sculpted stone facade, flirtatious cherubs (putti), and, albeit a much later addition, the gorgeous blue tiles and bold blue doors are something to behold. It’s the kind of building that invites admiration, and then tempts you to gaze just a little longer.

Tiles, of course

You can’t visit Portugal and not become a little bit obsessed with azulejos—those brilliantly coloured ceramic wall tiles. The patterns are mesmerising, and the sheen, irresistible. Naturally, I had to bring one home. I found mine in a tiny vintage shop on the main street of the old town—no name, just a memory and a tile wrapped in brown paper.

Antiquing and ancient cathedrals

We stumbled upon another antiques shop en route to Sé de Braga, the city’s oldest cathedral (founded in 1070—just let that sink in). Its Romanesque roots are layered with Gothic spires and Baroque touches, a brilliant mishmash that mirrors the city’s evolving history.

Vegan eats and coffee lows

Now for belly fuel: food. Braga surprised us with some solid vegan options. Which was just as well because, coffee snobs beware, the cappuccino scene was sadly underwhelming. The best we could find was at APE Coffee.

Breakfast can be tricky as most vegan places open at 12pm, so another vote in favour of INNSiDE—their breakfast buffet had plant-based yoghurt, chia pudding, scrambled tofu, fresh fruits and veggie sides. A strong start to the day.

Lunch? Dinner? Gosto Superior is a darling little spot, just a short walk uphill from the hotel. Only ten tables, serving traditional Portuguese fare with locally grown ingredients—charming and delicious.

A local recommended Hibiscus, a casual buffet-style vegan restaurant that unfortunately closes on Sundays (our mistake).

My favourite meal? Anjo Verde. We dined on their outdoor area, with their vegan options including a vegan feijoada—a delicious tofu and seitan dish—and what looked like a heartwarming apple crumble. Comfort food at its finest.

If you’re after a finer experience, Inato Bistro delivers—beautifully plated, subtly flavoured dishes, with a standout vegan curry that had deep flavour without the burn.

As for Soul, we arrived too close to their 4pm closing and found slim pickings—lesson learned: get there early. We ended up at Paladares Vegan instead, and their hummus toast and desserts more than made up for it.

Final thoughts

Braga is a gem—elegant, authentic, and unexpectedly progressive when it comes to plant-based cuisine. Would I have liked better coffee? Absolutely. But when a place gives you soul-soaring architecture, Rococo delights, tile treasure hunts, and a week of spontaneous dancing in the streets… well, you forgive a few lacklustre lattes.

Coffee, design, and new discoveries—that’s what fuel me. And Braga, dear reader, delivered on two out of three. That’s not bad at all.

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